Saturday April 26, 2014: 7th Annual Factory Five Racing Cruise-In – Huntington Beach, CA   Leave a comment

 

 

The 7th annual Factory Five Racing Cruise-In and Car show is next week! Come and see finished and almost finished classic cars – each one individually hand-built. The car show starts at 9AM and it is FREE.

Here is a video of what may have been the very last “Moment of Thunder” at the 2012 event. It is a slow pan showing some of the cars on display revving their engines all at once – a tribute to friends who are no longer with us: Roger Stine, Dick Smith, Robert Feddersen, Paul Mastroinni, and Andy Salvaggio.

The Moment of Thunder is much louder in person.

More details are posted on the Official Factory Five Racing website.

 

I will be there to see how others finished their Type 65 Coupe kits!

Type 65 Coupe Update: Fuel Pump Bracket, Cable Bulkhead Brackets, E-Brake Location   Leave a comment

After something like three or four false starts, I finally settled on a way to mount the external fuel pump on my Coupe. The final solution is so simple, I feel stupid….

First, I tried mounting the pump on the lower brace, under the IRS pumpkin. But that just did not look right, and it was difficult to access from either above or below the car. Then I tried mounting the pump on the Factory Five Metal battery box, but discovered the battery box blocks access to the fill and drain plugs on the differential.

Here is the final answer, a simple, flat plate of 1/8-inch aluminum. This will help simplify the fuel hose routing, too.

IMG_8357-kh6wz - simple fuel pump bracket

More Fabrication

I made a pair of triangular plates to create a bulkhead to hold the e-brake cable and the fuel hoses (one for supply to the engine and one for the return into the tank) on the passenger side of the chassis. An identical plate for the driver side will be used for the other e-brake cable and any wiring harness going to the rear of the car.

Since the 1/8-inch aluminum plate I am using for these brackets is scrap material, some extra holes are sometimes included in the items I make. When I am not able to re-use existing holes, I patch them with JB Weld or epoxy, then paint the item with high temperature BBQ paint. These brackets are finished in silver.

IMG_8387-kh6wz - triangle bracket 1

 

IMG_8400 - kh6wz - triangle bracket 2

The large holes are cushioned with a PCV grommet; it is thick and large enough to pass the 3/8-inch fuel lines nicely.

Here are some views of the passenger-side bracket installed with Clecos:

IMG_8404 kh6wz - triangle bracket installed - P-side

 

 

 

IMG_8406 - kh6wz - triangle bracket - fuel line

Next, I started laying out the e-brake cables and the complete kit e-brake handle. When I installed the rear brakes, I thought the cables looked too short. And last night I noticed that I am correct – the cables supplied with the IRS brake kit are about four to six inches too short.

I may have a solution to this, based on some Forum postings on this same topic — see the photo below. I do not like the turn buckle from the hardware store, I think I should replace it with a stainless steel clevis six to eight inches long to allow for adjustment. (McMaster-Carr items. . . )

IMG_8370 - kh6wz - e-brake assy1

UPDATE: I ordered an e-brake kit from Richard Oben of North Race Cars. (The same place I ordered my air conditioner – yet to be installed). The kit will move the e-brake to a more practical location at the top of the transmission tunnel.

Many builders of the Roadster as well as the Coupe do not like the way the brake cables rub against the big four inch tube. I will make a small Teflon block and mount it to the bottom of the chassis so the cable can slide more easily, and make it look much nicer. More details when I get to that step.

Main Wire Harness
I started laying out the main wire harness. A few weeks ago, I painted the fuse panel with white appliance epoxy paint. This will brighten up the underside of the dash and will prevent corrosion. Based on something I read on the Roadster section of one of the F5R Forums, I added a small hinge to the fuse panel mounting plate. You can see the hinge on the right side of the bracket in this picture:

 

IMG_8408 - kh6wz - fuse panel painted

 

However, this is bad advice, at least for my Coupe application. This is not a good thing to do for several reasons:

1) It moves the fuse block about a quarter-inch forward into the footbox, and adds strain to several wires in the Ron Francis harness supplied with the Complete Kit.

2) The reason for the hinge was to make it possible to swing the entire panel down for easy servicing. However, this is impossible, since there is not enough slack and the thick harness will not allow the fuse panel to simply “swing down.”

3) The mounting holes must be very close to the edge of the 2-inch rail. Removing the hinge makes a better location for the mounting screws.

After removing the hinge, and mounting the fuse panel per the instructions, I noticed some “squishiness” in the fuse panel, which I do not like. I have not seen this mentioned in any post so I thought I would bring it up here.

The fuse panel is a piece of thin aluminum, laser cut to shape to hold the plastic fuse panel. Three zip screws (the self-tapping hex-head screws that held the cockpit aluminum in place when the kit was shipped) fasten it in place under the driver footbox, near the steering column.

All fine and dandy, but the fourth corner is “floating in space” and flexes easily. I decided to add a small aluminum bracket to make the fuse panel stronger (flex less). I hope the bracket does not get in the way of anything to be mounted later….

 

IMG_8422 - kh6wz - added bracket for fuse panel

Great Sign at the Lumber Store – Never Lie   Leave a comment

Saw this and had to share it. .. 

kh6wz - x-ray sign Ganahl Lumber

Flash Back from the Big Green Egg   Leave a comment

I had to perform a “sterilization” operation on my BGE this morning. Because of the recent rain and lack of use, I noticed some mold growing inside my ceramic cooker. This is not un-common, and usually happens in humid climates. The solution is to simply make a very hot fire to burn off and sterilize the cooking area.

I made a screaming hot fire, over 500 to 550 degrees F.

Since I wanted to cook a pair of tri-tip roasts later in the day, I wanted to snuff the fire and let it cool down so I could use it later. So, I closed the top and bottom vents, and let the fire starve for several minutes.

When it reached around 250 or 300 degrees (4 or 6 hours later), I “burped” the lid three times (my normal procedure to prevent flash-back), and opened the lid to see if the heat burned and killed off the inside surfaces. About two seconds after I lifted the lid, I heard that scary “whoooooosh” sound of the fire coming back to life. This was the biggest and loudest flash-back I have ever survived.

Here’s a picture of my “lifting arm” –

IMG_8395 - kh6wz - BGE singed arm hair

 

I was lucky – No burns to my skin, just some very singed arm-hair.

 

Meanwhile, the two tri-tip roasts came out perfect – Those will make great sandwiches for the next few weeks….

 

THIS is Why I am Building the Type 65 Coupe   Leave a comment

The Factory Five Racing Type 65 Coupe is based on the Shelby Cobra Daytona. Only six of them were made.

On January 24, 2014, Daniel Strohl posted an article about this famous and important American racing car. Read the article:

Shelby Cobra Daytona becomes first vehicle on National Historic Vehicle Register

Type 65 Coupe Update: Cockpit Aluminum, Battery Box and Fuel Lines   Leave a comment

IMG_8000 - kh6wz - 65 Coupe cockpit al

After several weeks, it is good to get back to work on the Factory Five Racing Type 65 Coupe. I finally completed drilling the rivet holes for all cockpit aluminum panels, and added a battery cut-off switch as you can see above.

Here is a hint for builders – there is a fairly large gap in the bottom right corner of the driver’s side floor and the “A” shaped piece that meets the transmission tunnel. I looked at several Coupes and Roadsters and they all have this space. However, by pushing on the A-shaped piece from behind (under the chassis and in the engine bay) – this gap can be closed up nicely. See below. . .

IMG_8007 kh6wz - 65 Coupe cockpit Al - fixed space

IMG_8008 - kh6wz - 65 Coupe cockpit Al - fixed space

 

But what about this area, at the rear of the driver’s side door – indicated by a piece of blue masking tape – see that gap? Does something cover this space up or do I need to fabricate a replacement panel? Both sides look the same.

IMG_8005 - kh6wz - 65 Coupe cockpit Al - correct or not

 

 

As mentioned in a previous post, I finally decided to mount the external fuel pump under the Factory Five Metal battery box. This is a protected location and is a low point on the chassis.

IMG_7910 - kh6wz - 65 Coupe - fuel pump location

One problem will be access to the fill and drain holes for the Ford Racing differential. I had to drill out the rivets previously installed and tapped some 1/4-20 holes – this will enable the removal of the battery box when draining and filling the rear end fluid. Not the ideal situation, but I do not see too many alternatives to this arrangement.

My Ford 302 V8 has an MSD Atomic electronic fuel injection system, and I am running both feed and return fuel lines. Here is a picture of the tank end. . .

IMG_8010 - kh6wz - 65 Coupe - fuel line starts

The fuel line runs from the first filter (right side of the chassis) to the fuel pump, and goes around to the driver side. Then it goes under the rear end to the passenger side of the chassis, where it goes to a second fuel filter mounted under the passenger seat, and finally to the engine.

The same path will be used for the return system. Pretty much standard layout.

Next Build Session

Depending on the weather, I will remove all interior panels and paint the under side with automotive under body paint. It is a rubberized black paint which should deaden some road noise, insulate heat and protect the panels from road debris.

Another item on the next to do list is the wiring harness. Here is a look at the main portion. . .

IMG_8006

Bacon Dogs on the Big Green Egg   Leave a comment

IMG_7909 w yoshida Bacon Dog serving

Nathan’s hot dog wrapped with bacon and dressed with grainy hot mustard and sweet pickle relish. I know – the onions are missing.

For some reason I had a hankering for a good hot dog. My favorite wieners are the famous Nathan’s. I also had a package of thick-cut bacon in the fridge, so I decided to wrap the wieners with a nice slice to make some Bacon Dogs.

I made a two-zone fire in the BGE, and cooked 4 bacon dogs at a time to cope with the flare-ups.

IMG_7905 - kh6wz - zone fire in BGE2

IMG_7907 - w yoshida Bacon Dogs1

IMG_7908 w yoshida Bacon Dogs Done

These were simple and fast and good. I think I need to try replacing the bacon with some Italian prosciutto or  cappicola (gabagoul) next time.

And always remember: As  Dirty Harry (Clint Eastwood) said in “Sudden Impact” — “Nobody, I mean nobody puts ketchup on a hot dog.”

So after making these Bacon Dogs, my mind began to wander at the office today, and I thought about Maui Hot Dogs and Hawaiian Portuguese sausage. So I stopped by the local Marukai market (Costa Mesa, CA) and bought a selection of linguica. I will be doing a comparison of the various sausages at the next cook-out!

IMG_7920

 

UPDATE: Looks like someone already did a Portuguese sausage “shoot-out” 

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